I have been meaning to update this blog for a few days now but just have not had the chance. My last week or so has been spent in lyari helping organize and then attending a large “public meeting” or protest against the current dictatorial regime and for democratic rule in Pakistan. Rather than dwelling on the event itself I would like to focus on my experiences over the last week or so.
Basically Lyari can be considered as the first town within Karachi. Along with this claim to fame, it is also probably amongst the most notorious areas of Karachi rife with gangs and underworld dealings. In a nutshell, it is the pre-Gulliani harlem of Karachi – only worse. The stories of Lyari were many but I tried not to let them influence my experience of the locality. Going into Lyari, on the first night of many, at about midnight, to meet the locals and start the organization for the public meeting (to be held later the following week) I was quite taken aback by the hustle and bustle on the broken streets. At every corner there were tea shops, with youths playing carom board, sipping tea, smoking cigarettes and hanging about….the reason for this vibrant gathering at this time of night was pretty obvious….no one had any work to get up for. It seemed a waste…a whole generation wailing away their time over tea and Caram…but I suspected this was nothing new. Generations in Lyari had bought the promises of “Paris” only to be repaid by worsening conditions by each successive year. Lyari was where the common man was – atleast from a political perspective – everyone wanted a piece of it – until elections were over at least…..it was a critical marketing gambit.
Behind the vibrant streets was a whole other ecosphere….based on hashish, prostitution, smuggled gasoline and many other financially lucrative engagements. This was all done under the watchful and involved eye of the local police who for all intents and purposes directed and managed the local underworld affairs. This lucrative black economy had also escalated in a gang turf war and blood was being spilt as a result on regular basis….things that the locals were pretty immune to.
All of this sounded rather intimidating, but in reality was not quite like that. Yes, all these activities existed and there was a lot of crime but this was the result of other problems. This was not out of choice…people had to earn a living somehow….it had become a dog eat dog scenario because no alternatives were present. There was no employment, there were no schools, I was hard pressed to find any medical related building and there certainly was no proper hygiene and sanitation. If people were to survive they had to do so on their own instinct and capabilities. Such a scenario dictates that even those who do not want to engage in illegal activities are left with a choice of indulgence or extinction….
Speaking to the people was again an eye opener. Whom ever I met and wherever I went not once did I feel threatened, or uncomfortable – despite being obviously an outsider – the first evening I happened to be wearing a pair of baggy Jeans and a t-shirt – appropriate dress for the ghetto ..no? It was just by chance this had happened…I was out somewhere and had to go directly to lyari…and therefore was not able to change into a more discreet kurta shalwar. Regardless even despite this fashion faux pas, I felt no discomfort in walking the streets at well after midnight. Granted I was also there with other people who were known in the neighborhood…but at times I did venture away from the group….the point being that the people were just people…they were no different than those you would meet on the streets of new york or London or Karachi…they wanted what people want…the only difference was their circumstances happened to be considerable worse than in which most of us find ourselves…apart from that…no difference.
I sat with the group till late in the night eating fresh, hot kebabs with nan and sipping tea….none of which the locals would let any of us pay for. Despite the fact that they had so little, this did not seem to impact their hospitality in any manner…I have spent time with much wealthier people who have had much less hospitality to offer.
I sat there reflecting that these are the real people of Pakistan – the vibrancy i often mention – the masses – the engine of our nation. I am sure just like Lyari there numerous such communities who are deprived of basic amenities and opportunities. We talk about the economic improvement of Pakistan, based on some financial gymnastics by government accountants – all of which is meaningless unless the people of the streets reinforce this opinion. The marginal population sitting in drawing rooms of defence and other affluent areas can pass as many opinions and comments about how great things are – they probably are for them – infact I don’t think they have every been that bad for them…I think we would be hard pressed to find anyone in these localities who have had to give the increased price of onions or oil have caused any sleepless nights. Poor education – so what ? London is only 8 hours away… Telling people that things are better when their daily experiences are testament to the opposite is an exercise in delusion.
The painstaking truth is that things are better…but only for those who were in good shape to begin with…the division of wealth (measured by the Gini index) is increasing in Paksitan, not decreasing. Income in real terms has declined not increased, inflation is on the rise, there is no hope for the masses to rise above any position their father every enjoyed by utilizing the public education system….break out of the ghetto…that is a fantasy in Pakistan. Let’s not even talk about medical treatment…life is cheap here…death is common place and the resources available to save lives are limited…and therefore concentrated amongst the few….take a walk thru Jinnah Hospital and see if you don’t come out with more ailments than with you went in with….
Anyway, Lyari was a good experience. It showed me that perceptions are just that…perceptions. In reality the people of pakistan are frustrated, people are disillusioned, people are fast running out of hope…..the masses are turning to any means for survival…and they cannot be blamed for these decisions. The government and media is too busy patting itself on the back about the superficial balance sheet improvements as a result of a few loan restructuring exercercises….if we have learnt one thing….accounting is not always (usually) representative of value of wealth…look no further than enron….. My only hope is that the people of Lyari and the like become the litmus test for progress rather than some meaningless accounting practices which have no consideration for the engine of Pakistan – the common man.
As a footnote: the Public Meeting (Jalsa) was well attended and the message well received….the bottom line….things have to change and each of us has to do what we can to be a part of that…whether in defence, Lyari or London…..
Posted by ha5san
Posted by ha5san
Posted by ha5san